Which Drill Bits You Actually Need for Common Home Tasks

Picking up a drill for the first time — or the fiftieth — often means staring at a wall of drill bits you need for home jobs and wondering which ones are actually worth owning. The question isn’t whether you can drill a hole; it’s whether you can drill the right hole, in the right material, without cracking a tile, burning a bit, or stripping a screw. This guide cuts through the noise, answers the questions most homeowners face mid-project, and gives you a practical toolkit you can build without overspending or second-guessing yourself.

The Essential Drill Bits Every Home Needs

The Short Checklist

Before anything else, here’s what a well-equipped homeowner actually uses:

• HSS (High-Speed Steel) Twist Bit Set — a multi-size set covering wood, plastic, and light metal; the workhorse of any toolkit
• Brad-Point Bits — clean, accurate holes in wood with minimal tear-out; ideal for shelving and furniture work
• Spade or Forstner Bits — larger holes in wood for cables, pipes, and lock installations; Forstner cuts cleaner
• Masonry Bits (Carbide-Tipped) — for concrete, brick, and block; pairs with a hammer drill setting
• SDS Bits — for tougher masonry work when a dedicated rotary hammer is available
• Tile/Glass Bits (Diamond or Carbide-Tipped) — for ceramic tile, glass, and porcelain without cracking
• Step Drill (Unibit) — one bit that opens holes in thin metal or sheet materials progressively
• Countersink Bit — recesses screw heads flush or below the surface for a clean finish
• Hole Saw (Selected Sizes) — cuts large circular openings for fixtures, pipes, and door hardware

Optional additions include cobalt-alloy bits for hardened metals and titanium-nitride-coated bits for longer everyday service life.

One Buying Rule for Each Bit

Why You Need Each Type: Matching the Bit to the Material

Wood: Choosing Between Forstner, Brad-Point, and Spade

While wood is forgiving, an incorrect bit can leave ragged, splintered edges or holes too wide for anchors to hold. Brad-point bits feature a sharp center tip that keeps the bit from wandering, along with two outer spurs that score the wood before the flutes begin cutting. These bits are suited to holes where appearance or accuracy is a consideration—such as shelf pin holes, cabinet hardware placement, or pilot holes for larger screws. They are effective in both hardwood and softwood.

Spade bits are flat, inexpensive, and fast. They suit rough work where finish doesn’t matter — running cables behind walls, boring holes through structural timber. They tear out the exit face of the wood unless you back the piece with scrap material.

Forstner bits cut with a rim cutter rather than flutes, producing a flat-bottomed, clean hole. Use them when making overlapping or angled bores, when the hole bottom must be flat (for hinges, for instance), or when drilling large-diameter holes in finished wood. They require slower drill speeds but deliver quality results.

For pilot holes, the bit diameter should match the screw shank—the smooth portion below the head—rather than the outer thread width. This helps reduce the chance of splitting while allowing the threads to hold effectively.

Does Material Hardness Change Which Metal Bit You Need?

Yes — noticeably. Standard HSS twist bits handle mild steel, aluminum, copper, and brass well. For harder steels — stainless, tool steel, hardened fasteners — cobalt-alloy bits run cooler and last longer under friction.

Key technique points for metal:

• Use a center punch before drilling to create a divot; this stops the bit from skating across the surface
• Run at lower RPMs than for wood; heat is the enemy of bit life
• Apply cutting oil (even a drop of machine oil or dedicated cutting fluid) to reduce friction and extend bit life
• Use consistent, moderate pressure; let the bit cut rather than forcing it

Step drills are a practical alternative to carrying multiple twist bits for thin materials. For sheet metal, electrical panels, and thin-gauge steel, a step drill produces holes across a range of sizes. Its progressive steps self-center in existing holes, which lessens the need for deburring.

Concrete and Brick: Masonry Bits vs. SDS Bits

Standard drill bits won’t cut through masonry — carbide-tipped masonry bits are purpose-built for the task. The carbide tip handles the abrasion of concrete aggregate; the flute geometry pulls dust out of the hole.

For light masonry work (a few anchor holes, mounting a TV bracket on a rendered wall), a standard hammer drill fitted with carbide-tipped masonry bits is adequate. Set the drill to hammer mode, use steady pressure, and let the percussion action do the work. Avoid excessive force — it wears the bit and can crack softer masonry.

SDS (Slotted Drive System) bits are designed for rotary hammers. The SDS shank locks into a dedicated chuck that allows the bit to move forward and back independently of the chuck’s rotation. This tool generates more impact energy than a standard hammer drill and is suited to dense concrete, hard brick, and larger masonry openings. SDS bits are not compatible with standard drill chucks unless an adapter is used.

After drilling masonry, always blow or vacuum the hole before inserting an anchor — loose dust prevents anchors from setting correctly.

How Do You Drill Tile Without Cracking It?

Tile is among the more nerve-wracking materials for homeowners, but a careful approach makes it manageable. Ceramic and porcelain tiles are hard and brittle; they crack when subjected to percussion, lateral force, or heat from a spinning bit.

• Use a carbide-spear or diamond-coated tile bit, never a standard twist bit or masonry bit in percussion mode
• Switch the drill to rotation-only (no hammer action)
• Mark the drill point with tape rather than a permanent marker to help the bit find traction
• Keep drill speed low to moderate — high speeds generate heat that weakens the glaze and the tile body
• Apply a small bead of water or use a water-filled guide attachment to cool the bit
• Apply light, consistent pressure; allow the bit to work gradually rather than pushing through

For glass, the technique is identical — low speed, water cooling, no percussion. Securing the glass firmly (but gently, without flexing it) is important before beginning.

Thin Sheet Materials: Where Step Drills Earn Their Place

In thin sheet metal, plywood panels, plastic junction boxes, and cable conduit plates, standard twist bits tend to grab and snatch as they break through the back face. A step drill solves this by widening the hole gradually, with each step acting as a stable guide for the next. It’s also the cleaner choice for materials where a chamfered edge is acceptable and deburring time matters.

Anatomy and Coatings: How a Bit Is Built Affects Performance

Bit Materials: HSS, Cobalt, and Carbide

High-Speed Steel (HSS) is the baseline for general-purpose bits. It tolerates moderate heat and handles wood, plastic, and soft to medium metals without issue. It dulls gradually with use and can be resharpened. Cobalt alloy (typically HSS with 5–8% cobalt mixed in) tolerates significantly higher temperatures without losing hardness. It’s the right choice for stainless steel, cast iron, and harder alloys. Cobalt bits cost more but last longer under demanding conditions. Carbide-tipped bits use a harder carbide insert brazed onto an HSS or steel body. The carbide handles the abrasion of masonry and tile while the steel body absorbs vibration.

Common Coatings and What They Do

Coatings extend bit life but are not a substitute for proper speed, pressure, and lubrication technique. A coated bit used incorrectly will fail just as quickly as an uncoated one.

Shank Types and Chuck Compatibility

Your drill’s chuck determines which shank types it accepts:

• Round shank: cylindrical; fits standard keyless or keyed chucks; used with HSS and brad-point bits
• Hex shank: quick-change compatible; common on driver bits and compact bit sets
• SDS-Plus and SDS-Max: for rotary hammer drills; SDS-Plus suits typical residential work, SDS-Max for heavier-duty tasks
• Reduced shank: allows larger bits to fit standard chucks—for instance, a Forstner bit with a narrower shank

Always verify compatibility before buying a specialist bit; an SDS masonry bit in a standard chuck will spin without hammering action

Choosing the Right Diameter: Practical Rules

Pilot Holes for Screws

Pilot holes reduce the risk of splitting and help screws seat cleanly. In softwood, the hole should be roughly the diameter of the screw’s core—the shank without the threads. For hardwood, a slightly larger hole keeps the wood from gripping the screw so tightly that the fastener shears. When driving machine screws into metal, the pilot hole generally equals the outer diameter minus the thread pitch.

Anchors and Plugs

Plastic wall anchors are sized to match a drill bit diameter — the packaging almost always states the required drill size. As a general rule: the drill bit should produce a hole the anchor slides into with light hand pressure, not a loose fit. For toggle bolts in hollow walls, the hole size needs to accommodate the folded toggle wings passing through.

When to Use a Hole Saw or Forstner Bit

Twist bits and brad-point bits are suited to smaller‑diameter holes. For larger bores in wood, Forstner bits produce clean edges and are a common choice for door hardware or shelving. Hole saws handle a broader range of sizes and materials—pipe openings, electrical boxes, lock sets, and recessed fixtures.

How to Buy Wisely: Sets vs. Specialty Bits

A Starter Homeowner Kit

A practical starting point for common household tasks:

• 1× HSS twist bit set (covering a range of small to medium diameters)
• 1× Brad-point wood bit set (common sizes)
• 1× Carbide masonry bit set (frequently used diameters)
• 1× Tile or glass bit (sized to your typical anchor)
• 1× Step drill (medium range)
• 1× Countersink bit with adjustable depth stop
• 1× Hole saw (sized for a common project, such as door hardware)

When Should You Buy Specialty Bits Separately?

Tile bits, diamond core bits, SDS bits, and large hole saws are one-time or project-specific purchases. Buy them when you have a specific job, not speculatively. A tile bit used twice a year doesn’t need to be cobalt-grade; a masonry bit used monthly benefits from better construction. Assess your actual usage before upgrading.

What to Check When Evaluating a Set

• Included case or holder: loose bits in a bag lead to damaged cutting edges and wasted storage space
• Shank type compatibility: confirm against your drill’s chuck specification
• Replacement availability: sets from suppliers with individual bit sales let you replace only what dulls, rather than discarding a full set
• Material specification: look for HSS-R (rolled, ground) or HSS-G (ground) designations on better sets; these hold edges longer than pressed bits

How to Drill Right: Step-by-Step for Common Home Tasks

Hanging Shelves and TVs

1. Identify what’s behind the wall — stud, hollow cavity, or solid masonry
2. For studs: use an HSS twist bit for a clean pilot hole; match screw size to load
3. For hollow walls with plastic anchors: drill the anchor-specified size, tap the anchor flush, then drive the screw
4. For solid (masonry) walls: switch to hammer mode, use a carbide masonry bit, blow out the hole, insert the anchor, then drive the screw in rotation-only mode

Installing Curtain Rods and Blinds

Most curtain rod brackets require small-diameter screws into either drywall anchors or directly into a wooden lintel. Measure bracket spacing carefully before drilling. Use a brad-point or HSS bit for wood; a masonry bit if drilling into a plaster-and-brick reveal. Keep holes level — a spirit level or laser level prevents frustrating re-drilling later.

Running Cables and Making Large Openings

Hole saws handle this task. Safety checklist before cutting:

• Confirm no electrical cables, pipes, or structural members lie behind the surface
• Clamp or secure the workpiece if it can move
• Use the pilot drill (fitted in most hole saws) to start the cut accurately
• Reduce pressure as the saw breaks through to prevent snatching

Mounting Outdoor Fixtures on Brick or Concrete

Use an SDS drill or hammer drill with a carbide masonry bit. Drill to the anchor depth plus 5–10 mm to allow for dust. Blow or vacuum the hole clean. Insert the anchor type specified for the load — resin anchors for heavy fixtures, plastic plugs for lighter fittings. Drive the fixing in rotation-only mode.

Drilling Tile or Glass Without Cracking

1. Mark the spot with tape (not a marker pen on a glazed surface)
2. Use a diamond-tipped or carbide-spear tile bit
3. Set the drill to rotation-only — never hammer mode
4. Start at low speed with minimal pressure until a small groove forms (about 30 seconds)
5. Add water periodically to cool the cutting edge
6. Increase pressure only once the bit is seated in the tile body
7. Ease pressure as the bit approaches the back face of the tile

Maintenance and Storage: Keeping Your Bits in Working Condition

When to Sharpen vs. Replace

Signs a bit needs attention include: it produces smoke or a burning smell in wood, it takes noticeably longer to cut through a material you’ve drilled before, or the tip shows visible rounding or chipping. HSS and brad-point bits can be resharpened with a dedicated bit sharpener or a fine grinding wheel if you’re confident doing so. Carbide-tipped and tile bits are generally replaced rather than resharpened at home. A dull bit costs you time and damages your work — don’t drill past the point of usefulness.

Lubrication and Cooling for Different Materials

• Metal drilling: apply cutting oil before and during the cut; re-apply every few seconds for deeper holes
• Tile and glass: keep the bit wet with water; a rubber putty dam around the drill point holds a small pool effectively
• Wood: no lubrication needed; focus on speed and pressure control to prevent burning from friction

How to Store Bits Without Damaging Them

Store bits tip-up in a case or index holder to protect cutting edges. Avoid loose storage in toolboxes where tips contact metal surfaces. For SDS bits, keep them in their original sleeve or a dedicated holder — the shank’s locking grooves are easy to damage if bits roll freely. Wipe metal bits lightly with a dry cloth after use to prevent surface rust in humid environments.

Troubleshooting: Quick Fixes for Drilling Problems

Bit Slips or Wanders at the Start

This is common on hard or smooth surfaces. Solutions include: using a center punch on metal to create a starter divot; applying masking tape on tile to give the bit something to grip; using a drill guide or pilot-point attachment for precision work; starting at very low speed until the bit seats itself.

Bits Overheating or Smoking

Reduce drill speed immediately, apply lubrication (cutting oil for metal, water for tile), remove the bit from the hole periodically to allow it to cool, and check that flutes aren’t packed with material. Packed flutes can’t dissipate heat and accelerate wear.

Cracked Tiles or Splintered Wood

For tile: percussion mode was likely engaged, the bit was dull, or pressure was too high near the exit point. For wood: exit-face tear-out is caused by the bit breaking through without support — back the workpiece with scrap wood, or reduce pressure and slow down as the bit exits the material.

Stripped Screw Heads and Damaged Fasteners

Prevention is the answer: use the correct pilot hole size and ensure the driver bit is fully seated before applying torque. For an already-stripped fastener, a screw extractor set (reverse-helix bits designed for this purpose) backs the screw out by drilling into the head at low speed in reverse.

Project Quick-Guides

Mounting a Shelf

• Locate studs or identify wall type
• Choose bit: brad-point for studs, masonry for solid walls, HSS for drywall anchors
• Mark holes level with a spirit level
• Drill pilot holes (stud) or anchor holes (hollow/masonry)
• Insert anchors if required; tap flush
• Drive screws in rotation-only mode
• Recheck level before loading the shelf

Installing a Deadbolt or Door Hardware

• Mark door face for latch bore and edge bore
• Use a Forstner or hole saw for the face bore (typically 54 mm backset)
• Use a spade or Forstner for the edge bore
• Chisel the latch plate recess to depth
• Test fit; adjust if the latch binds
• Install strike plate with masonry or wood pilot holes as appropriate

Drilling Through Metal for a Bracket

• Mark center points; punch each with a center punch
• Start with a small pilot drill (2–3 mm)
• Step up to final size with the appropriate HSS, cobalt, or step drill
• Apply cutting oil throughout
• Deburr the exit hole with a countersink bit or fine file

Summary and Final Buying Checklist

The Eight Bits That Cover Almost Everything

Quick Safety Reminders

• Always wear safety glasses — chips and dust travel at speed
• Secure the workpiece with clamps before drilling; never hold material freehand
• Confirm the drill is set to the correct mode (rotation vs. hammer) before starting
• Keep hands and clothing clear of the chuck and bit

Getting the right drill bits for home jobs doesn’t require a large investment or a background in engineering. A handful of well-chosen bits — used with the right technique and maintained between jobs — handles nearly everything a home throws at you. Start with the basics, add specialty bits as specific projects arise, and replace dull bits before they damage your work or your drill. With those principles in place, the guesswork disappears and the job gets done.